Brave the Elements: Winter Beauty Care
When the temps dip, you need to bolster your skin care regimen from head to toe. Here, a primer on the humectants, occlusive, and emollients you need for softer, flake-free skin.
Story by Anna M. Park, December 2016
When it comes to caring for your skin this winter, there are three categories of skin care you need to know: humectants, occlusive, and emollients. You need all three to keep skin hydrated. Here’s why.
Humectants:
A humectant is a substance that attracts water, whether it is from the environment or from a deeper level within the skin, which is usually the case since our skin is typically less dry than the environment, says dermatologist Sonoa Au, M.D., of Advanced Dermatology PC. The water that a humectant attracts from the deeper levels moisturizes the stratum corneum (the top layer of the epidermis). Examples include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea, and propylene glycol.
Occlusives:
Occlusives, like petrolatum, waxes, oils, and silicones (like dimethicone and cyclomethicone), create a physical barrier on skin, limiting skin’s water loss, also known as transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Some occlusives, like petrolatum, leave a heavy feeling on skin, says dermatologist Annie Chiu, M.D.
Emollients:
Emollients spread easily on the skin and improve and soften flaky skin cells often associated with dry skin. Some emollients are occlusive and some may also increase the rate of barrier repair, says Dr. Chiu. Silicones, vegetable oils, and butters are examples of emollients.
So why do you need all three? “Each category serves a slightly different purpose,” says Dr. Chiu.
For example, if you live in a dry climate, the humectant glycerin will draw moisture from the deeper layers of the skin and hold it on the surface, which can ironically dry out your skin. “Therefore, you should look for skin care products that contain glycerin in combination with other emollients and occlusive ingredients if you hope to combat dry skin,” she says. “It is especially useful to combine an emollient with an occlusive or a humectant, as it helps with overall skin feel.”
For Dr. Au, she recommends the drugstore buys Curél and Neutrogena Norwegian Formula Hand Cream, which have the humectant glycerin, as well as the ceramide-rich skin care line of CeraVe. A new drugstore line, Aquation, available at Walmart, harnesses the power of hyaluronic acid and ceramides in a dual phase delivery system to hydrate skin and prevent moisture evaporation for 24 hours.
Meanwhile, Dr. Chiu likes lactic acid, which not only exfoliates the dry, dead surface of the skin and accelerates collagen production, “it’s a great moisturizer.” But most of all, “Eating foods high in water content can help hydrate your skin from the inside out,” she says. “Try watermelon, cantaloupe, apples, oranges, kiwi, and watery veggies like celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, and carrots. Make sure you’re getting enough vitamin C and zinc to support the healthy production of collagen and elastin. Also consider an omega-3 supplement, or consume more fatty fish and flaxseed to give your skin the building blocks it needs to appear supple and smooth.”